Limoges: The Four des Casseaux

Four des Casseaux as part of a small museum.

The Saint Etienne bridge is one of two medieval bridges of Limoges (the Saint-Martial bridge being the second), building started at the beginning of the 13th century. Bridge is a 130 meters long, a ‘sister’ of the old bridge in Terrrasson and a link in the pelgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Originally, the land on the banks of the Vienne, located between the Saint Etienne bridge and the ‘Four des Casseaux’, was known as the ‘Port du Naveix’ (today referenced in the ‘Rue du Port du Naveix’ (or N520). Since the manufacture of porcelain was established in Limoges, firing was done in wood-fired ovens. Wood was later replaced by coal, which in turn gave way to gas or electricity.

The 'reverse flame' kiln.

A large part of the wood needed by the factories was stored on this land, where it arrived floating down the Vienne river. Upstream, the valleys of Vienne and Taurion were densely forested. Loggers decended their lumber by the water. Arrived at the ‘port’ (or terminus), it was stopped by a large wooden comb spanning the river, known as the ‘ramier’. Wood was stacked, dried and turned to charcoal before use. The ramier disappeared when coal started arriving by railroad (opened in 1856) gradually replaced wood as fuel for the many factories in the city. The main ramier, known as ‘the great ramier’, first built in 1761, was finally demolished in 1897.

The 'chromolithograph', a printing press using stone slabs.

Today the Four des Casseaux is part of a small museum, with at its center the kiln build in 1902. First constructed for the Gérard Dufraisseix and Abbott (G.D.A.) company that later became the Royal Limoges which is still operating the adjacent factory. Classified historical monument since 1987 it is the last surviving example of a technology that flourished in the city since 1878 and made 'Limoges porcelain' its 'white gold'. The 'reverse flame' kiln measures 7.5 meters across and is almost 20 meters high.

Exhibits brought together by 'l'Association Espace Procelain'.

Consuming 16 tonnes per firing the oven has two stories for a first firing at 900º C in the globe on top, and a second firing at 1400ºC at the bottom. The building by itself is interesting, added interest are the exhibits that were brought together by 'l'Association Espace Procelain' (who manage the site). My first time to encounter a 'chromolithograph', a printing press using stone slabs.

French electricity accessory maker 'Le Grand' started out producing tea ware.

Spooky porcelain dolls, medical equipment, tokens and electricity stuff. Turns out the French electricity accessory maker 'Le Grand' started out producing tea ware. And outside 'the biggest porcelain piece ever produced in Limoges', an over 5 meters long (2 tonnes) high tension isolator.

A morning well spend on a rainy day in Limoges.

A morning well spend on a rainy day in Limoges.