La Vicomté de Turenne: Autoire.

Autoire deserves its “Plus Beaux Villages de France” label.

“In descending from the plateau by the precipices that edge them, one is suddenly transported from parched wastes to pleasant pastures... Above, on that stone table, are wind, cold, nakedness, poverty, moroseness, hideousness, - a void, for few villages are found aloft; below, orchard land, warmth, gaiety, abundance. The startling contrast between some of the cañons and their causses forms one of the most phenomenal beauties of beautiful France.”

Wrote Sabine Baring-Gould (an Anglican priest, antiquarian, novelist, folk song collector and eclectic scholar), in his 1894 book: The deserts of Southern France: an introduction to the limestone and chalk plateaux of ancient Aquitaine. He found the causses to be ‘veritable deserts: in winter a Siberia; in summer a Sahara…’

Nestled at the bottom of the forested valley is the village of Autoire.

A year earlier (1893), compatriot Edward Harrison Barker, wrote in his book; Wanderings by southern waters: Eastern Aquitaine, after taking his ‘sheep-track up the arid steeps’:

“And yet, when I looked down into the bottom of this steep desert of stones, what soft and vernal beauty was there... just as if that strip of meadow, with its gently-gliding river, had been lifted out of an English dale and dropped into the midst of the sternest scenery of Southern France.”

Autoire can be explored through small alleyways.

Sadly the ‘epoch when everyone travels’ is over, but the modern day tourist can nowhere experience the contrast between the plateau and the valley easier than by hiking the Autoire ‘cirque’ (circus) with its 150 to 200 m high limestone cliffs. Shaped by the Autoire stream, grinding its way into the limestone plateau of the Causse de Gramat through a 30 m high waterfall (7). Beautiful and impressive, this majestic waterfall is the first highlight on a 3 km (2 hour) walk. On your way to the waterfall, stop at the Chappelle Saint-Roch (6) and have a quick look at its frescoes through the grilled window.

The 30 m high waterfall.

From the waterfall a steep climb brings you to a viewing area (8) on the edge of the cliff with great panoramic views of the valley and waterfall. The hamlet of Siran is home to a farm managing a flock angora goats. The descend passes the Château des Anglais cliff-castle (9), a medieval construction enclosing a overhang in the limestone cliff. Long the home of ‘brigands’, it has commanding views and is naturally protected on all sides, a closer inspection reveals it is basically a facade, only two meters deep at the interior.

Hiking the Autoire ‘cirque’.

Nestled at the bottom of the forested valley is the village of Autoire with its elegant manor houses flanked by turrets, mansions, castles and half-timbered houses. The Romanesque church of Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul (1) was rebuilt by the end of the 11th and beginning of the 12th centuries. It was fortified towards the end of the Hundred Years War, and the bell tower was raised. Covered with a cupola it has interesting sculpted decorations.

Elegant manor houses flanked by turrets, mansions, castles and half-timbered houses.

The Fontaine aux Dauphins (2) build by ‘voluntary contributions’ takes center stage, pass l’ancien couvent (3) and the Chateau de Limargue (4) that obtained the right to build towers and machicolations after its owner was knighted by King Charles VIII. The door at the bottom of the tower is adorned with a toric arch carved in an accolade, typical of the late 15th century. The second tower, more imposing, served as a defense tower.

Map of Autoire and its hike.

The Manoir de Laroque-Delpratas (5) deserve special mention; owned by a bourgeois family since 1605 (judges, notaries, lawyers), it preserves its 17th century characteristics: L-shaped plan, stairwell, large windows and decorated skylights. Small restaurants, and shops promoting local art and gastronomy, can be explored through small alleyways. Autoire deserves its “Plus Beaux Villages de France” label. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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La Vicomté de Turenne: Collonges-la-Rouge.

View through the 15th century gate.

The village headquarters the french association of the Plus Beaux Villages de France, created by its mayor in the 1980's. The Rouge (red) in its name refers to the red sandstone that was used in the construction of the village. Formed millions of years ago the stone is found naturally to the north of the village. The deep red color, that becomes especially contrasting with the green hillsides after rain, is caused by the iron oxide within the stone.

Well preserved streetscapes in a deep red color.

A first church was build here in the 8^th century and Collonges-la-Rouge developed into a prosperous little town with six 'chateaux' and became a renowned wine producer, till the Phylloxeria epidemic wiped out the vines in the 19^th century. The village switched to the production of walnut and walnut oil. The population dwindled from almost 2000 in the 16^th century, to just 500 hundred today.

Map of Collonges-la-Rouge.

During 1930's the architectural integrity of the village became protected and restored including the church, mansions, castles, houses and pilgrim’s hostels. As a result, it is possible today to walk through the 15^th century defense wall gates and well preserved streetscapes in a deep red color.

Detail local artisan shop.

A visit to the Saint Pierre church (3) will puzzle you with a wealth of symbolism and a quite unique 'double nave', that divided the church for use by the two different 'cults'. The green in the colored glass windows contrasts with the red walls, and a sky-well illuminates the center.

Halle with four banal.

Walk through the village and admire the Castel de Maussac (1), Castel de Vassinhac (2), Halle and four banal (4), Maison Boutang du Peyrat (5), Castel de Benges (6), Maison de la Sirene (7), Manoir de Beauverie (8) and the Town hall (9) along the way. Find out more about the landscape, history, villages and life in the Vicomté de Turenne through:

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La Vicomté de Turenne: Turenne.

Table mountain of Turenne.

The table mountain of Turenne has been attractive for its natural defensive position, fortifications date back to the 8th century when it became the center of the Carolingian land of Tornés, over time giving birth to the Vicomté de Turenne.

Map of Turenne.

After the reformation Turenne became a protestant stronghold becoming a safe-haven for protestant artisans, continuing to enjoy a privileged position well into the 18th century, when it became the property of Louis XV and the catholic Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Pantaléon church (7) was reconstructed.

Turenne seen from the castle.

After the revolution the castle and defence works were largely dismantled, leaving the round tower of Caesar (1) and square donjon (2) ornamenting the plateau, whiles scattering stones and ornaments are across the village.

View from Caesar's tower.

Walking around you will spot windows, doors, cornerstones and statues ornamenting unexpected places. The Capucines chapel (3) hosts exibitions in summer and has a metal viewpoint sticking over the 13th century defence wall.

Port de la ville.

Walk through the port de la ville (4), find the cazemate du Virage (5) and the tour dite du Calvaire (6) parts of the 16th century defense works. Find out more about the landscape, history, villages and life in the Vicomté de Turenne through:

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La Vicomté de Turenne: Curemonte.

Skyline of Curemonte.

Hugging the rocky ridge line overlooking the Maumont and Sourdoire valleys, Curemonte was build on a strategic defensive position. Six towers dominate the skyline build by three lords united to defend the village. One of the lesser known ‘most beautiful villages’ of the Corrèze, with 7 noble houses, 3 castles, 3 churches, a market hall, fountains and other small heritage, this village is really worth a detour.

Map of Curemont.

Most of the buildings visible today date back to the 14th and 15th centuries. Towers, main buildings and the fortified enclosure of the castles of Saint Hilaire and Plas dominate. In the village, the Saint-Barthélemy church, patron saint of Curemonte, was built in the 12th century.

Architectural detail of the castle.

Over time enlarged with a chapel, and a sacristy. In the 17th century, it was decorated with a painted wooden altarpiece which has recently been restored by the Friends of Curemonte into its original polychrome glory.

Local produce direct from the farm.

The rural exodus and First World War affected the village, bringing to population down from 1200 at the beginning of the 20th century, to only 216 inhabitants today. A walk through the village will reveal large architecture and interesting small heritage like the Grotto (1), Noble houses (2), St.Hilaire and de Plas castles (3) and the Saint Bartlelemy church (4).

Summer in Curemonte.

But the real attraction lies in looking back at the village, nested in the surrounding countryside, from the hiking trails. Every season has its charm, with poppies popping out in spring, autumn leaves, and gentile Limousin cattle year round. Find out more about the landscape, history, villages and life in the Vicomté de Turenne through:

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La Vicomté de Turenne: Martel.

The market 'halle' of Martel.

Driving towards Martel through the barrenness of the causse, seeing a skyline emerge dominated by 7 towers is a clear indication you are approaching a historic place.

La Tour Tournemire

“Martel” (french for ‘hammer’), was the name given to the great Charles Martel in the 700s. Legend has it the “savior of Europe” (and grandfather of Charlemagne), founded this garrison town, after defeating the Muslim forces that took over Aquitaine in 732, to block any future Islamic advance towards northern Europe.

Map of Martel.

The Palais de la Raymondie (1) at the center of town houses a small museum largely dedicated to the Puy d’Issolud, a Celtic archaeological site (to the west) which has been identified as Uxellodunum, besieged by Julius Caesar in 51 BC, legendary last stand of the Gauls against Roman occupation.

Food served on the streets.

And Martel hosted an Angevine (‘English’) tragedy. When Henry ‘the younger king of England’, took refuge and died here in 1183. So estranged and antagonized from his father, the count of Anjou (and Henry II ‘the elder king of England’) only arrived after his death was confirmed, thinking the scene had been a trap set by his son to catch him.

Doorway with roses

The small town is densely packed with history, a weekly farmers market is held in the historic ‘Halle’ (2) every Saturday. Rich in local produce, and seasonal truffles and mushrooms gathered from the surrounding forests and causse. Strolling through the small streets admire the Maison Fabri (3), Hotel de Briance (4), Maison de la Vidalie (5), Hotel de Mirandol (6), Saint-Maur church (7) and La Tour Tournemire (8).

Slow life...

Towards the south of the town you will find the train station from which a steam train plies a historic rail line constructed on the Dordogne river cliff side. Find out more about the landscape, history, villages and life in the Vicomté de Turenne through:

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La Vicomté de Turenne

Collonges-la-Rouge

Today Terrasson finds itself on the border of the Périgord and Limousin. Historically it was part of the independent Viconté de Turenne. The viconté emerged during the Carolingian empire, first references date back to the 8^th century, the first known Lord of Turenne dates back to 823.

Map of the Vicomté du Turenne

The vicompté occupied a strategic location on the borders of the Périgord, Limousin, Quercy and Auvergne. Controlling the Dordogne, Vézère and Corrèze rivers (bulk transport wood, metal, wine, grain and salt), the old roman roads Lyon-Bordeaux and Paris-Toulouse important for communication as well as the pilgrim routes to Rocamadour and Compostela.

Curemonte

This fiscal paradise avant la lettre did not pay taxes to France nor its kings, had its own army, its own currency and was ruled by a parliament representing the different states. The vicompté perfected the game of remaining neutral in wars, playing the ‘French’ (Capetian) and Angevin (‘English’) out against each other and welcomed protestants fleeing persecution in France./span>

Grapes in the vin paillé vineyards

At the beginning of the 17^th century to cultivation of tobacco was banned in France to favor the Compagnie des Indes with a monopoly. As the vicompté was not part of France it became the source of high quality tobacco smuggled into France.

Detail of Romanesque architecture Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne

Overtime the viscount ran into debt and by 1738 the then king of France Louis XV acquired the vicompté as his private property. It was not till after the french revolution the local parliament was abolished (1802) and the area absorbed into 3 french departments. Bringing a 1000 year independent history to a close.

Forest mushrooms at the local market

Today the area is dotted with some of the most beautiful villages of France. The abolishment of the vicompté brought the privileges (and economy) to an abrupt end, freezing much of the area in time. The villages conserve the memory of a prosperous economy based on tolls, tolerance and tax (evasion).

Spectacular scenery of the Gouffre de Padirac, its underground river and caves.

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Truffle season on the causse

The Black Truffle or Black Périgord Truffle (Tuber melanosporum), the second-most commercially valuable truffle species (after the Italian White Truffle; Tuber magnatum). The species is named after the Périgord region but is not an Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP). Other truffles found in the area are the Summer Truffle (Tuber aestivum) and the Winter Truffle (Tuber brumale), whose 'vein-markings' are more pronounced resulting in a lighter color. Black and Winter Truffles are harvested in late autumn and winter. The Summer Truffle throughout the summer.

Unlike often thought, the natural habitat of the truffle is not the forest. They prefer well drained calcium rich soils, under 'parc' landscapes (grasslands with spread-out trees) that are the result of grazing (like those traditionally found in the causses). The mycelia of truffles form symbiotic (mycorrhizal) relationships with the roots of several tree species including oak, hazel, beech and cedar. Black truffles suppress the growth of plants around their host, creating the impression of a burnt (brûlé) area around it. The truffle thus help the host tree to absorb nutrients from the soil, and helps reduce competition for water.

Winter is also the season for the truffle markets. Largest market is the one in Périgueux, and smaller local markets are organized in Terrasson and Saint Geniès. First week of February is also the time the village of Chartrier-Ferrière, in the Corrèze on the border with the Périgord (Dordogne). This is also the watershed between the Causse Corrèzien and the Causse de Terrasson, with truffle producers from both sides submitting their harvest to be judged. A little folklore, a little drink, a tombola, the market, a sense of community.

No public gatherings this year, so last year’s pictures, looking forward to next year! Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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