Coly valley hikes: Chapelle Mourat

Reminder of the past wine making.

Surrounded by forest this small hamlet was created by monks as a dependency to the monastery of Terrasson. The XII^th century chapel at it’s center, originally dedicated to ‘Our Lady of Maurès’, could accommodate fifteen people. Burned by the 'English' in 1450, it was rebuilt and through a series of transformations the chapel grew into a small church. The monks original purpose for the settlement seems to have been the cultivation of vines.

A living landscape including agricultural activity.

The carte d'état-major (map produced between 1820 and 1866) shows vineyards surrounded the hamlet, just before the 1880 epidemic decimated them. Having lost their purpose, the properties were sold to private individuals. By 1903 there was still a population of 137, today only 9 permanent residents remain going up a little in summer as holiday makers occupy cottages or second homes.

The ‘a bolets’ wine makers houses.

By the 1990’s the local government recognized the unique authenticity and coherence ‘of the whole’(ensemble) worthy of preservation. Constituting elements are: The forest clearing, ‘corderc’, romanesque church (1.), cemetery, enclosure and park of the old presbytery, wine maker’houses with their typical exterior staircases ‘a bolets’ dating from the 17, 18 and 19 centuries, two stone crosses (3.), and walnut plantations. In the Occitan tradition, a couderc refers to the central square around which the village or hamlet is organized which often includes common facilities like the bread oven, fountain, 'travail’ (2.) or place where animals drink.

An authentic hamlet in the heart of a forest.

The challenge to preserve ‘the authentic image of the hamlet in the heart of a forest’ was included in Terrasson’s municipal council’ proposal for a Architectural, Urban and Landscape Heritage Protection Zone (ZPPAUP: Zone de Protection du Patrimoine Architectural, Urbain et Paysager).

Map of Chapelle Mourat.

Bringing together all heritage protection measures; the preservation of sensitive archaeological sites, historic monuments, buildings of architectural interest, homogeneous urban complexes, natural spaces and landscape heritage. The zone, covering nearly 1078 hectares, was created in 1995. Under the proposal the ‘travail’, a device designed to immobilize horses and oxen during shoeing (métier à ferrer) and the bread oven of Chapelle Mourat’s corderc were restaured.

Couderc with the bread oven.

Walking around the hamlet a disused wine press at the back of the church and the 'a bolets’ wine makers houses are reminder of the past wine cultivation. This type of house are a signature for the peasant of the Causses with their living quarters located upstairs whiles the ground floor/basement, provided space for a few animals, workshop and wine making. Because the zone is a living landscape (not a museum) preservation measures do not exclude agricultural activity on the clearing nor the rehabilitation of residential buildings (though subject to certain limitations), they do excludes new constructions other than those required for farming .

Detail of the romanesque church portal.

Chapelle Mourat lies at the southern point of the 17.6 km / 6 hours (or the shortened 12.6 km / 4 h) ‘Boucle de Bouch’ hiking trail starting from Terrasson. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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Coly valley hikes: La Cassagne

Walk passing the bourg, fields, walnut groves and hamlets.

This small commune in a well preserved landscape invites you to explore its natural and cultural heritage. The 14^th century church of Saint Barthélémy (1) and its 15^th century presbytery (2) are superb examples of vernacular architecture with their impressive lauze (dry stacked) roofs. The church, presbytery, cemetery cross and the adjacent grange'(13^th century barn marking the presence of the Knight Templars) are all recognized as historical monuments.

The church of Saint Barthélémy and its presbytery.

La Cassagne has a 1.7km walk passing the bourg, fields, walnut groves and hamlets. It is also the starting point for a 11,7 km 'Boucle de la source de Coly'. The walk leads you through the walnut-grove passing the walnut drying shed (3) and up to the departmental road. You could cross this road and walk up the to the hamlet of Jarnel (4). The marking in the key-stone over the gate: 1791 PPPP (Pauvre Plaideur Prend Patience) is a reminder of the leading position La Cassagne occupied after the revolution when the population of every 'chef lieu' elected in 'judge of the land' for its own tribunal. Until the creation of the 'Canton de Terrasson' in 1800, the surrounding villages of Archignac, Jayac, Saint Amand de Coly, Saint Geniès, Palin and Ladornac settled their differences here.

Base of a round tower that remains of the castle.

The walk however turns left, through the fields in the direction of the former castle. On the doors and windows of the small houses (5) on the right and left you will discover decorative stones that once belonged to the feudal castle. After the revolutions locals were encouraged to bring down these 'symbols of oppression' and serve themselves with whatever they could use. All that remains of the castle are the surrounding walls (with the base of a round tower clearly visible). In place of the castle a maison bourgeoise was constructed in the 1800's (6).

The pigeonnier (pigeon tower).

The free standing pigeonnier (pigeon tower) is another beautiful example of vernacular architecture. Dating back to the 12^th century you will find it has, halfway-up the side, a randière to prevent small rodents from climbing up the wall to steal pigeons or their eggs. Inside there are 800 'pigeon holes' on 3 levels. Just under the roof (protected from the weather) you can make out some patterns painted in yellow and red, it is thought the whole walls was originally painted, and is still topped with a dry stacked lauze roof.

Detail dry stacked 'lauze' roof.

From here the walk leaves the paved road to follow the old gleigier path (7) (trail that served the hamlets of la Roche, Captus and la Rynie to get to the church). 'Gleigier' in the occitan language signifies 'of the church', along the path you will find 25 different trees and shrubs labeled with their occitan, french and scientific names. The trail passes through more walnut-groves and then steeply up to the hamlet of Genèbre (8).

View from the gleigier path.

Here you find the walnut oil mill (with direct sales), and two somewhat enthusiastic dogs. Walk around the buildings and get to the covered fontaine and lavoir (9). This well was enclosed with a little building during the 100 year war and has provided the village with water just until 1981. The adjacent washing area was used by the women of the hamlets to wash cloths and exchange information. From here you walk back to the church...

Detail of the 'fontaine' and 'lavoir'.

Currently the source of the Coly is found at the watermill of La Doux close to La Cassagne. Previously it was located close to Saint-Amand-de-Coly. Legend has it a local farmer could just save his life (and that of his oxen) when, whilst he was ploughing a field, the new source opened and started to spray out water.

Map of La Cassagne.

The 10-meter deep spring has since attracted much attention, between 1965 when the first serious exploration took place and the 1980s when researchers managed to explore the underground river for 3km. In 1991 they passed the 4km mark (which was a world record at the time) and in 2003 they managed to swim 5,88km. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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Coly valley hikes: Saint Amand de Coly

Cultural activities throughout summer.

The village of Saint-Amand-de-Coly is classified as one of 'France's most beautiful villages'. According to the legends, sometime halfway the 6^th century, during the reign of king Clovis I, a young noble man from the Limousin arrived to accept a monastic life. Amand followed Sore and Cyprien to the Merovingian monastery of Genouillac (now Terrasson) and after a long stay there, the three 'saints to be' decided to separate and live as solitary hermits. Amand found a cave not far from Genouillac in what was to become Saint-Amand-de-Coly.

Flowers popping up in the landscape.

During his life Amand evangelized the local population whom declared him a saint. After his death a monastery and village grew around his grave. The first known historic document referring to the monastery dates from 1047. Though there is mention of destruction here by Normans in 857, the year the Saint Sore monastery of Terrasson was plundered and raised to the ground. In 1101 it is decided to hand the monastery of Terrasson to the Benedictine order, prompting a core group of the monks to leave for Saint-Amand, where they established a Augustinian order.

Cultural activities throughout summer.

We now enter the middle ages with its own wars and ravages. The construction of the outer walls was probably started during the 100 year war, it was during the wars of religion that the protestants sacked the monastery and sought refuge in 1575, when canons had to be brought from Brive to chase them out. Some of the resulting holes in the walls are still visible today. It was during this time the tomb of Saint Amand was destroyed.

The fortified church dominates the village.

The monastery becomes the milking cow of the Sauvebeuf family whom milked it dry for 182 years at the end of which little more then a ruin remained, by 1738 only three monks are left. After the revolution all monasteries were nationalized and sold-off, the village is renamed Amand-le-Vallon. The abbey church became the village church but it not till 1886 some serious restoration work starts.

Map of Saint Amand de Coly.

​Sights
With a total depth of 48m, width of 27m and height of 8m the impressive fortified church dominates the village. The construction took most of the 12^th century. Based on a Latin cross layout, oriented east-west. The defense walls measure 300m and enclose an area of 5000m². The church was converted into a fortress but despite its additional defenses it remains a beautiful Romanesque church with simple lines and a simple interior. Its defenses include very thick walls, exits for archers and several blind staircases.

Transhumance passing through the village.

The historical walk of about 1km starts by exploring the church (1), the guardhouse (2) and the defense walls. It then explores the heritage of the village; the former drying shed for tobacco (3; now community hall), the drying shed for wallnuts (4;now tea room), the 'romanesque house' (5), the village well, the presbytery, the former hospital (6) and its washing area. The walk then provides some good views of the village (7), before returning. Alternatively there is a 2,5km 'nature trail' (8) close to the village. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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Vineyards of the south-west: AOC Corrèze - Vin de Paillé; Mille et une Pierres.

View of Branceilles through the vineyards.

Located in the extreme south of Corrèze, the Branceilles vineyard was the first to be replanted in 1986. Branceilles' 8 winegrowers are united under the 1001 pierres (1001 stones) banner.

Oak barrels in the cooperative cellar.

Cultivating a total of 30 hectares with principally merlot, cabarnet and gamay to produce some 150.000 bottles of wine a year. The wine has been marketed since 1990, from their cooperative chai.

Map of the vineyards and hikes.

We were told about half the production is certified ‘biological’ and noticed the difference whiles hiking around the vineyards, as some had strips of grass between the lines of vines and had clearly been sprayed to control the weeds under the vines. Whiles others had a combination of beans and grains grown in between the lines that was used to mulch the vines to both control the weeds and fertilise the soil.

Hiking through the vineyards.

Parking opposite the chai there are three walks: 2.8, 4.1 and 5.5 km, to explore the vineyards.

Work in the vineyards.

After the hike a visit to the chai, with the oak storage barrels in the basement, sample (and buy) some of the wines. The straw wines are exceptional and the taste lingers for long. Find out more about the hidden vineyards of the south-west of France through:

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Vineyards of the south-west: AOC Corrèze - Coteaux de la Vézère

Vineyards close to La Chartroulle.

Allassac was once famous for its vineyards until the phylloxéra epidemic arrived in 1876 . Though vineyards and livelihood disappeared, the centuries of cultivation had left their mark on the landscape. In the architecture of the wine merchant houses, with their presses and cellars. And in the terraces and wine cabanes still dotting the hillsides despite the new land-uses.

Slopes planted on terraces.

The vineyard Coteaux du Saillant - Vézère has replanted 21 hectares of the schistose slate soil of Allassac, Donzenac and Voutezac with Chemin, Sauvignon-gris, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet-franc. They were the first to plant the fragile and delicate Chemin variety in the South-West wine area (more usually found in the Loire valley).

Certified biological cultivation.

The modern approach is either biological or raisonnée cultivation. Raisonnée translates to integrated or sustainable agriculture. Compared to biological it’s a less emotional/dogmatic (more reasoned) break from the intensive agriculture. Keeping the soil covered to preserve the soil, limited artificial inputs, pruning, thinning , suckering and harvesting by hand. Though new parcels do now go straight into biological cultivation.

Bottling at the chai.

The chai uses modern metal tanks to produce wine from different grape varieties parcel by parcel. This allows the master wine maker to select particular qualities of the year, and create appropriate mixtures or varieties or wines of a single grape variety. Not using wooden barrels allows for the preservation of the ‘minerality’, in which the schistose slate soils contribute to the terroir.

Gamade wines on display.

The owner allows the public to hike over a trail and visit the vineyard unguided, best done walking down hill from the village of La Chartrouille towards Le Saillant. The views are spectacular and going this way has the added advantage of arriving at the chai for a little wine tasting afterward!

Chapel of Saillant

Chagall windows of the chapel.

Le Saillant is the starting point for hiking trails exploring the Vézère gorges and the series of small hydro-electric dams. The village has a small chapel build between 1620 - 1624, during the restoration of 1978 the stained glass windows were replaced with a series created by the famous artist, Marc Chagall. In 1982 the stained glass windows of the nave were installed, making them the last works by Chagall realized during his life. The second series originally had a yellow colour scheme which has not resisted time, but the dark blue, green, red and the rose window remain vivid. The chapel of Saillant is one of only four chapels with Chagall windows and was declared a national monument in 2008. Find out more about the hidden vineyards of the south-west of France through:

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