Coly valley hikes: Chapelle Mourat

Reminder of the past wine making.

Surrounded by forest this small hamlet was created by monks as a dependency to the monastery of Terrasson. The XII^th century chapel at it’s center, originally dedicated to ‘Our Lady of Maurès’, could accommodate fifteen people. Burned by the 'English' in 1450, it was rebuilt and through a series of transformations the chapel grew into a small church. The monks original purpose for the settlement seems to have been the cultivation of vines.

A living landscape including agricultural activity.

The carte d'état-major (map produced between 1820 and 1866) shows vineyards surrounded the hamlet, just before the 1880 epidemic decimated them. Having lost their purpose, the properties were sold to private individuals. By 1903 there was still a population of 137, today only 9 permanent residents remain going up a little in summer as holiday makers occupy cottages or second homes.

The ‘a bolets’ wine makers houses.

By the 1990’s the local government recognized the unique authenticity and coherence ‘of the whole’(ensemble) worthy of preservation. Constituting elements are: The forest clearing, ‘corderc’, romanesque church (1.), cemetery, enclosure and park of the old presbytery, wine maker’houses with their typical exterior staircases ‘a bolets’ dating from the 17, 18 and 19 centuries, two stone crosses (3.), and walnut plantations. In the Occitan tradition, a couderc refers to the central square around which the village or hamlet is organized which often includes common facilities like the bread oven, fountain, 'travail’ (2.) or place where animals drink.

An authentic hamlet in the heart of a forest.

The challenge to preserve ‘the authentic image of the hamlet in the heart of a forest’ was included in Terrasson’s municipal council’ proposal for a Architectural, Urban and Landscape Heritage Protection Zone (ZPPAUP: Zone de Protection du Patrimoine Architectural, Urbain et Paysager).

Map of Chapelle Mourat.

Bringing together all heritage protection measures; the preservation of sensitive archaeological sites, historic monuments, buildings of architectural interest, homogeneous urban complexes, natural spaces and landscape heritage. The zone, covering nearly 1078 hectares, was created in 1995. Under the proposal the ‘travail’, a device designed to immobilize horses and oxen during shoeing (métier à ferrer) and the bread oven of Chapelle Mourat’s corderc were restaured.

Couderc with the bread oven.

Walking around the hamlet a disused wine press at the back of the church and the 'a bolets’ wine makers houses are reminder of the past wine cultivation. This type of house are a signature for the peasant of the Causses with their living quarters located upstairs whiles the ground floor/basement, provided space for a few animals, workshop and wine making. Because the zone is a living landscape (not a museum) preservation measures do not exclude agricultural activity on the clearing nor the rehabilitation of residential buildings (though subject to certain limitations), they do excludes new constructions other than those required for farming .

Detail of the romanesque church portal.

Chapelle Mourat lies at the southern point of the 17.6 km / 6 hours (or the shortened 12.6 km / 4 h) ‘Boucle de Bouch’ hiking trail starting from Terrasson. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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Coly valley hikes: La Cassagne

Walk passing the bourg, fields, walnut groves and hamlets.

This small commune in a well preserved landscape invites you to explore its natural and cultural heritage. The 14^th century church of Saint Barthélémy (1) and its 15^th century presbytery (2) are superb examples of vernacular architecture with their impressive lauze (dry stacked) roofs. The church, presbytery, cemetery cross and the adjacent grange'(13^th century barn marking the presence of the Knight Templars) are all recognized as historical monuments.

The church of Saint Barthélémy and its presbytery.

La Cassagne has a 1.7km walk passing the bourg, fields, walnut groves and hamlets. It is also the starting point for a 11,7 km 'Boucle de la source de Coly'. The walk leads you through the walnut-grove passing the walnut drying shed (3) and up to the departmental road. You could cross this road and walk up the to the hamlet of Jarnel (4). The marking in the key-stone over the gate: 1791 PPPP (Pauvre Plaideur Prend Patience) is a reminder of the leading position La Cassagne occupied after the revolution when the population of every 'chef lieu' elected in 'judge of the land' for its own tribunal. Until the creation of the 'Canton de Terrasson' in 1800, the surrounding villages of Archignac, Jayac, Saint Amand de Coly, Saint Geniès, Palin and Ladornac settled their differences here.

Base of a round tower that remains of the castle.

The walk however turns left, through the fields in the direction of the former castle. On the doors and windows of the small houses (5) on the right and left you will discover decorative stones that once belonged to the feudal castle. After the revolutions locals were encouraged to bring down these 'symbols of oppression' and serve themselves with whatever they could use. All that remains of the castle are the surrounding walls (with the base of a round tower clearly visible). In place of the castle a maison bourgeoise was constructed in the 1800's (6).

The pigeonnier (pigeon tower).

The free standing pigeonnier (pigeon tower) is another beautiful example of vernacular architecture. Dating back to the 12^th century you will find it has, halfway-up the side, a randière to prevent small rodents from climbing up the wall to steal pigeons or their eggs. Inside there are 800 'pigeon holes' on 3 levels. Just under the roof (protected from the weather) you can make out some patterns painted in yellow and red, it is thought the whole walls was originally painted, and is still topped with a dry stacked lauze roof.

Detail dry stacked 'lauze' roof.

From here the walk leaves the paved road to follow the old gleigier path (7) (trail that served the hamlets of la Roche, Captus and la Rynie to get to the church). 'Gleigier' in the occitan language signifies 'of the church', along the path you will find 25 different trees and shrubs labeled with their occitan, french and scientific names. The trail passes through more walnut-groves and then steeply up to the hamlet of Genèbre (8).

View from the gleigier path.

Here you find the walnut oil mill (with direct sales), and two somewhat enthusiastic dogs. Walk around the buildings and get to the covered fontaine and lavoir (9). This well was enclosed with a little building during the 100 year war and has provided the village with water just until 1981. The adjacent washing area was used by the women of the hamlets to wash cloths and exchange information. From here you walk back to the church...

Detail of the 'fontaine' and 'lavoir'.

Currently the source of the Coly is found at the watermill of La Doux close to La Cassagne. Previously it was located close to Saint-Amand-de-Coly. Legend has it a local farmer could just save his life (and that of his oxen) when, whilst he was ploughing a field, the new source opened and started to spray out water.

Map of La Cassagne.

The 10-meter deep spring has since attracted much attention, between 1965 when the first serious exploration took place and the 1980s when researchers managed to explore the underground river for 3km. In 1991 they passed the 4km mark (which was a world record at the time) and in 2003 they managed to swim 5,88km. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

The index of this blog.