Day trips by train: Cahors.

Views of Cahors from Le Mont Saint Cyr.

Cahors presents an attractive day trip or detour with its medieval city at its center and the surrounding vineyards. Take a themed walk and let the historic Valentré 'devil's' bridge tell its classic Faustian tale. Explore the architecture, secret gardens and St. Etienne cathedral. Or hop on a bus and explore the vineyards, chateaux and villages along the river Lot.

One of the Secret Gardens of Cahors.

Cahors was the capital of pre-revolution Quercy and now of the Lot département. Founded by the Romans and Nostradamus studied here. Whiles you are in Cahors, make sure you sample some of the famous 'black wines of Cahors', you will be drinking history. Produced from Malbec grapes grown along the river Lot since Roman times.

Arriving at the train station of Cahors.

Arriving at the train station of Cahors, less than an hour from Brive, you can take a bus to explore the vineyards (see the Vineyards of thesouth-west: AOC Cahors post) or walk into town. The train station is located in the 'modern' part of town and you have the option to follow the indicators to the tourist office to get to the medieval city, or walk to the close-by Valentré bridge (1). Icon of Cahors this 700 years old bridge was classified historic monument in 1840. The construction started in 1308 and finished by 1385. It is the best preserved example of a 'military architecture' bridge in France. The defensive system is based on 5 gates under 3 towers and 2 gatehouses. What catches the eye is the lack of machicoulis on the central tower. This is the subject of the Faustian tale:

The Valentré bridge; icon of Cahors.

Legend has it that the architect had to overcome great technical difficulties, so much so he called-in (or accepted) the help of the devil. In return for his soul, the devil assisted in the drawing and construction of the bridge on the agreement that the architect's soul would be his upon completion... The bridge was however never 'completed' … the devil being a bad loser attacked the central tower.

In 1879 a sculpture of the devil was added to the central tower as a reference to the legend. The statue is still there today.

Little sculpture of the devil.

La Fontaine des Chartreux
The birthplace of Cahors, the Fontaine des Chartreux (3)(a large natural well where an underground river comes to the surface), was a holy site dedicated to the Celtic goddess of water: Divona. Archaeological research brought to the surface roman coins dating back to the first centuries before and after Christ (yes, that strange habit of throwing coins into fountains goes way-back).

Fontaine des Chartreux; the birthplace of Cahors.

The Roman's decision to founded Divona Cadurcorum next to it was a typical decision based on the Roman worldview, as it was for the Christian order of the Chaterhouse to build their monastery right on top of it, that is how it got its current name. Since 1853 it has been supplying Cahors with drinking water, first through the pumping station now known as the Maison de l'eau (2), and since 1926 through the electric pumps installed in the little building next to the well.

Map of Cahors.

Medieval town
This is the main attraction of Cahors, the old town can be found between the Boulevard Léon Gambetta on the west and the river Lot on the east. Its moat, wall and gates disappeared under the boulevard, but for the rest the original structure of small streets, alleys and courtyards has been well preserved. A program of restoration has been ongoing and some buildings stand out, but much remains a bit raw and to be discovered. La Halle de Cahors (8) dates back to 1865 and was recently renovated to meet modern standards is open Tuesday to Saturday 8:30AM–2PM, 3:30–7PM, Sunday morning (Monday’s closed) with a large selection of local produce on offer.

La Halle de Cahors.

Worth special mention are the Jean XXII tower (5), Chateau de Roi, Maison de la Rue Daurade and the Olivier-de-Magny square. The Saint-Etienne cathedral (6) has a shrine dedicated to St. Perboyre who after 4 years in Macau crossed into China in 1839. Despite his disguise, he was arrested, tortured and put to death on a cross by the Qing authorities in 1840. When visiting the cathedral look-up to admire the round decorated dooms and make sure not to miss the cloister on the right towards the back. Towards the river you find the Hôtel de Roaldès (also know as Maison Henry IV), Maison de Patrimoine, and the Hôtel de ville.

One of the Saint-Etienne cathedral decorated dooms.

Today very little dating to roman times is visible; the Arc de Diane (4) stands a bit lost in the modern section of today's town, the ruins of the Roman amphitheater (7) can be found (and visited) in the underground car park next to the tourist office, entrance at the back of the Gambetta statue. Best views of the town can be had from Le Mont Saint Cyr (9) which is quite a climb and look right on when crossing the bridge to get a view of the Pont ferroviaire de Cahors (1883).

The ramparts or Barbacane.

The ramparts
The city of Cahors has a clear medieval old town still recognizable today. The wall, moat and gates that ones protected this part have been demolished to make space for the Boulevard Léon Gambetta. A second (or first line of) defense has however been largely preserved. These ramparts run from the river on west to the river on east of the peninsula, that way creating an island protected largely by the river, and the wall. The ramparts date back to the 7th century and were reconstructed and improved upon in the 12th and 14th. On the eastern side the Barbacane and the St.-Jean (or hanging) tower form an interesting cluster of buildings. Enclosed you will find the Closelet des Croisades garden with plants that were brought back from the middle east like the Rose of Damascus, Myrtle, Agapanthus and peach.

The Secret Gardens of Cahors.

The Secret Gardens of Cahors
Explore these 30 little gardens with their evocative names: The Garden of Inebriation, the Little Garden of the Poor Clares, the Garden of the Ladies of Cahors... etc. The Jardin de la Sorcière et du Dragon (the Garden of the Witch and the Dragon) is an enclosed garden with plants connected to sorcery and witchcraft. Get a free map from the tourism office.

La Villa Cahors Malbec.

La Villa Cahors Malbec (7)
Although there are plenty of restaurants, bars, terraces and shops where you can buy and sample Cahors wines around town. This visitor information and wine tasting center next to the tourist office invites the visitor to discover all about the wonderful wines of Cahors and their history. Run jointly by the Tourist Office and the Union of Cahors Wine Professionals it offers wine tasting and background information.

Vineyards of the south-west: AOC Cahors

Chateau in the vineyards.

Prestigious with centuries old tradition, cultivation was introduced under the roman empire, and the wine featured on the wedding banket table in 1152 when Alenore d'Aquitaine married the future king of England. But as emperor Domitien had done to protect Italian wines, in 1373 the Guyenne 'highland' wines (notably Cahors) received extra taxation to protect the Gironde wines (Bordeaux).

Map of the vineyards.

Production peaked in 1870 with 40-60.000 ha before phylloxera destroyed the vineyards. By 1947 the Malbec grape was reintroduced for Argentine stock to the community of Parnac. Although the appelation Cahors (AOC since 1971) only produces one type of wine, and the wine is centered around a single grape variety, there are distinct differences in soil and hence the terroir and characteristic of the wine. The Malbec grape; also known as Côt, locally known as Auxerrois or around the world just as Cahors (still popular in Russia, but today grown on the Crimea).

Picnicking in the vineyard.

The majority is grown on the old alluvial soils (up to 200,000 years old) of the terraces and relief above the river Lot, whereas there is also wine produced closer to the river where soils are still being deposited (or less than 20,000 years old), as well as higher up the slopes of the causse. Vines in the valley of the Lot produce more grapes that make a lighter vin de rivière; ready to drink in 2 to 3 years. The vines on the terraces produce the classic dark velvet Cahors wines that age over 4-5 years (the first three years on the barrel). The calcium rich red clay of the causse (500,000 to a million years old) produces a very strong wine so rich in tannins it takes about 10 years to lose its 'fire'. Cahors wines have a minimum 70% Malbec with some Merlot (for fruit, alcohol and rondeur), Tannat (to improve colour and aging).

Off the road to Albas.

By public transport
The vineyards are located outside the city of Cahors, and most tourists would drive their own car to visit the chateaux. Alternatively you can use bus line 913 (Cahors to Monsempron Libos) which leaves from the Cahors train station and passes: Douelle, Parbac, Luzech, Albas, Castelfranc, and Puy-l'Evêque. These places have vineyards located along the river, which makes for a nice hike if the weather allows. For the real enthusiasts there is a Departmental farm in Anlars-Juillac, an experimental/research farm that houses the mother plants of the Malbec variety.

Chateau de Cayx, Queen Margareth II of Denmark's holiday home

Cruise on the Lot
There are 'full day cruises' on Fridays in July and August with lunch onboard, passing through locks and than transfer to a coach to visit the Chateau de Cayx, Queen Margareth II of Denmark's holiday home, tasting their wines and the option to visit her castle and gardens (that is, if the Queen's not in). Return to Cahors by bus, after a wonderful day. Reservations obligatory.

Vineyard on the Lot river.

La Villa Cahors; Malbec in the city
Although there are plenty of restaurants, bars, terraces and shops where you can buy and sample Cahors wines around town. This visitor information and wine tasting center next to the tourist office invites the visitor to discover all about the wonderful wines of Cahors and their history. Run jointly by the Tourist Office and the Union of Cahors Wine Professionals it offers wine tasting and background information. Find out more about the hidden vineyards of the south-west of France through:

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