Coly valley hikes

Poppies in a field.

Just to the South of Terrasson, the Coly stream cuts through steep hills with a remarkable geology: Jurassic formations to the north and Cretaceous to the south. Small streams drains the 170 km<² watershed covered with undulated forestland, scattered with rich agricultural valleys, grasslands (pelouse), walnut groves, villages and small hamlets.

Map of the Coly watershed with hiking trails.

Villages include Saint Amand de Coly; classified as one of France’s most beautiful villages. And the hamlet of Chapelle Mouret; protected Architectural, Urban and Landscape Heritage Protection Zone (ZPPAUP - Zone de Protection du Patrimoine Architectural, Urbain et Paysager).

Rich fauna of the varied landscape.

The Causse de Terrasson is a large natural area of ecological interest (ZNIEFF: Zone Naturelle d'Intérêt Ecologique, Faunistique et Floristique) encompassing representative environments of the Périgordian causses: to the north the hills are covered with a mosaic of pubescent oak forests, juniper heaths and lean grasslands. To the south forest of chestnuts and hornbeam.

Extensive grazing keeps the landscape open.

The Coly stream falls into the Vézère at Condat-sur-Vézère, once the principal seat of the Hospitallers with dependencies in La Cassagne and Ladornac. Upstream, the Chironde tributary supports a series of watermills, on its upper reaches the village of Saint Geniès with its remarkable concentration of vernacular architecture and its typical lauze (dry stacked natural stone) roofs.

Vernacular heritage dots the landscape.

A large number of hikes and walks allow for the active exploration of this varied landscape. Every season has something different to offer, from the wild orchids of spring to the colors of autumn, many activities in summer; including the transhumance and cultural events in Saint Amand de Coly. And the black Périgord truffle harvest and markets of winter.

Varied vegetation and small cultural heritage along the hiking trials.

Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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Coly valley hikes: La Dornac

The three saints: Sore, Amand and Cyprien.

La Dornac (officially but also known as Ladornac), is a small rural community that is part of the communauté de communes of Terrasson. Population peaked in 1830’s at around 1000 inhabitants, dipped to 250 in the 1980’s, and has since increased to 400. This increase is mostly due to its position in the aire d'attraction de Brive-la-Gaillarde. The shift from agricultural (wine) production to a commute village is most notable in the bourg, which in 1830’s had 200 inhabitants but today only supports 20. Despite the small population a ‘multiple rural’ serves as bread depot and bar-restaurant with a terrace.

The Notre-Dame Church.

The bourg is small but has an interesting cluster of buildings surrounding the Notre-Dame Church (1), once the seat of a preceptory of the knights Hospitallers. Built on a steep slope in a number of phases. The paneled rectangular nave was added to the 12th century vaulted choir which supports the 3-levels defense tower. The keep had breteches and hoards allegedly strong enough to refuse to receive Bertran de Goth, future Pope Clement in 1304.

Map of la Dornac's sentier d’interprétation.

To the north side of the nave a smaller chapel covered with a lauze roof and, to the south, a large rectangular Gothic chapel were added in the 16^th century. The capitals are carved with interlacing, foliage and figures. The bands of Caroligian tradition on two of them are reminiscent of Romanesque art from the second half of the 12^th century. A belfry-wall, to the west, dominates a portal with three broken arches.

BBQ at the hall after the transhumance.

The main attraction of la Dornac is its access to the surrounding Causse Terrassonnais through a number of hiking trails. To walk the 2,5km sentier d’interprétation pick-up the booklet at the bar-restaurant. Or walk the 9,6 Boucle de St.Chaubrant (also known as Des bois et des pierres indicated in yellow), the 10km Orchidées sauvages et petit patrimoine (indicated in blue), or the 16 km ‘A la dcouverte de la faune et la flore sauvage’ (indicated in red). The walks are exploring the natural and cultural heritage dotting the landscape including the drystacked walls and cabanes reminders of wine cultivation, the truffires (2) and traces left by the charcoal makers (charbonnières). Bring a pick-nick to the cabane de la Louise (3) or other dedicated pick-nick areas along the trails.

Le site des orchidées sauvages.

If you happen to be in the area during the spring (April-June) a visit to the wild orchid site (4) is a must. Local enthusiast Josiane Glaudon updates the indicators on the side, and will guide on request. An information panel does help the individual visitor. Please be careful not to step on the orchids, and do not gather flowers or plants. The community organizes or participates in activities throughout summer often using the community hall(5) to welcome and shield participants. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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Coly valley hikes: Saint-Geniès

Ensemble of beautifully restored local stone buildings and lauze roofs.

Typical village located in the heart of the Périgord Noir, Saint Genies is located on the Chironde, a tributary of the Coly. Of the XII^th century castle only a vestiges of the dungeon (2) remain. The village is renowned for the important architectural ensemble of beautifully restored local stone buildings and lauze roofs. On the central square a market is held every Sunday morning, in July and August, the Wednesday night market allows you to buy and consume on the spot. From December to February the Sunday morning truffle market brings together local producers.

In July and August, the night market allows you to buy and consume on the spot.

In 1200 the village is acquired by Boson de Salignac and mention of the lordship of Saint Genies appears towards 1282. In 1327 the co-lords of Val, Salignac and Saint Genies authorizes Gaubert de la Caminade to build the Cheylard chapel. The date the original castle was destroyed is unknown, the current castle (1) dates from the XVI^th century, when several houses (elements of the XIII^th century) were united.

The XIVth century frescoes are of particular interest.

From the Romanesque XII^th century church of Notre Dame de l’Assomption (1) only the apse remains. The side chapels date from the XIII, XV, and XVI^th centuries, the bell tower near the end of the XV^th century . The church was devastated during the wars of religion. The chapel of Cheylard (or Saint Catherine chapel) (3) has survived in its original form, its XIV^th century frescoes are of particular interest. It was recognized as a historical monuments in 1899. The middle section of the north wall depicts Saint Thomas Becket (Archbishop of Canterbury between 1162 and 1170), a popular saint in the Périgord and Limousin during the Angevine (‘English’) empire.

A 'dynasty' of lauzier masters, classified as an UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Saint Genies has an exceptional heritage of lauze roofs, thanks to a 'dynasty' of lauzier masters. Classified as an UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICP) Mr.Chapoulie is also responsible for the upkeep of beautiful Perigord Noir castles like Castelnaud, Fenelon, Marqueyssac and even roofed the Maison de la Sirène in Collonges-la-Rouge, Corrèze. The lauzes are between 2 and 6 cm thick and weight between 500 and 800 kg per m2, so a solid oak frame with chestnut slats is needed. When restored, a roof is first 'rissonnee' (hedgehogged) to check and clean the existing stone.Then redone from bottom to top on a 'bench'.

Map of Saint Geniès.

Saint Geniès is at the start of a number of hikes, the 50 minutes Promenade the bourg offers some great views, whiles the 11/15 km Boucle du Sireyjol et de la Chironde explores the Watermills and small cultural heritage like the lavoir (4), former railway station (5) and pigeon-towers (especially recommended during the European Mill days and National Heritage Weekend when mills are open for visits). Other options are the 15.5km Boucle Pierres et Lauzes, the 7,7km Boucle des Moulins, 7,7km Boucle des Etangs and the 15,4km Boucle des Combes. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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Coly valley hikes: Condat-sur-Vézère

Condat on confluence of the Vézère and Coly.

The name Condat derives from the gallic word 'condate', meaning 'confluence of two rivers', in this case the Vézère and the Coly. The first writings evoking Condat go back to the Middle Ages. Today the village is known as Condat-sur-Vézère (occitan Condat de Vesera) to avoid confusion as the name is 'Condat' is quite common.

Condat during its festivities.

Condat was occupied by the Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem (also known as Knights Hospitalier or Hospitallers for short) from the 12^th till the 18^th century. After the conquest of Jerusalem in 1099 during the first crusade, the organization became a religious and military order charged with the care and defense of the Holy Land. Pope Clement V dissolved the rival order, the Knights Templar, in 1312 and turned over much of their property to the Hospitallers.

Map of Condat-sur-Vézère.

The village was the seat of the principal commanderie of the Hospitallers which had authority over a genuine network of commanderies of the Périgord. The commanders had the right on high and low justice and his authority was exercised over the many possessions in Périgord. From 1291 to 1790, thirty commanders succeeded one another in Condat. During the wars of religion the parish of Condat was devastated several times.

Romanesque church of Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Jean-Baptiste.

The commanderie of Condat has conserved the majority of the buildings as they were (re)constructed under the command of François de Touchboeuf Clermont by 1540. The small watermill (1), large watermill with the common bread oven (2) (four banal), the church (3), prison (4), commanders lodge (5), noble house of Verdier (6), remnants of the ancient enclosure wall (7) and fishponds. The Hospitallers exploited the hydrolic power of the Coly through mills to work grain, nuts and hemp though this last 'fulling mill' has today disappeared.

The 14th century prison tower.

From the Castle of Condat, the 16^th century lodge remains and the 14^th century prison tower, registered as historical monuments since 1948. The rectangular building has an adjacent square on one side, fishpond and ramparts on the other, and in the opposite corner a 16^th century tower. The Romanesque church of Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Jean-Baptiste, dates back to the 12^th century with its fortified flat bell tower with four bays, that is accessible through a staircase in the right buttress. The old residences include the noble house of the Verdier and some half-timbered (à colombage) houses (8).

Transhumance passing through the village.

The four banal (commune oven) is a reminder of the restrictions in feudal tenure in France which obliged peasants to use the facilities of their lords, until the 18^th century. These included the required use-for-payment of the lord's mill to grind grain, his wine press to make wine, and his oven to bake bread. Both the manorial lord's right to these dues and the banality-dues themselves are called droit de banalité. The object of this right was qualified as 'banal', e.g. the four banal.

Hiking the Boucle de Maurival.

You can walk around Condat in 30 minutes or hike one of the following trails: Boucle de la Commanderie; 9km – 3h, Boucle du Pech; 2,7km – 1h and, Boucle de Maurival; 11,6km – 3h. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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