Wednesday, April 21, 2021

Coly valley hikes: Saint Amand de Coly

Cultural activities throughout summer.

Cultural activities throughout summer.

The village of Saint-Amand-de-Coly is classified as one of 'France's most beautiful villages'. According to the legends, sometime halfway the 6th century, during the reign of king Clovis I, a young noble man from the Limousin arrived to accept a monastic life. Amand followed Sore and Cyprien to the Merovingian monastery of Genouillac (now Terrasson) and after a long stay there, the three 'saints to be' decided to separate and live as solitary hermits. Amand found a cave not far from Genouillac in what was to become Saint-Amand-de-Coly.
Flowers popping up in the landscape.

Flowers popping up in the landscape.

During his life Amand evangelized the local population whom declared him a saint. After his death a monastery and village grew around his grave. The first known historic document referring to the monastery dates from 1047. Though there is mention of destruction here by Normans in 857, the year the Saint Sore monastery of Terrasson was plundered and raised to the ground. In 1101 it is decided to hand the monastery of Terrasson to the Benedictine order, prompting a core group of the monks to leave for Saint-Amand, where they established a Augustinian order.
Cultural activities throughout summer.

Cultural activities throughout summer.

We now enter the middle ages with its own wars and ravages. The construction of the outer walls was probably started during the 100 year war, it was during the wars of religion that the protestants sacked the monastery and sought refuge in 1575, when canons had to be brought from Brive to chase them out. Some of the resulting holes in the walls are still visible today. It was during this time the tomb of Saint Amand was destroyed.
The fortified church dominates the village.
The fortified church dominates the village.
The monastery becomes the milking cow of the Sauvebeuf family whom milked it dry for 182 years at the end of which little more then a ruin remained, by 1738 only three monks are left. After the revolution all monasteries were nationalized and sold-off, the village is renamed Amand-le-Vallon. The abbey church became the village church but it not till 1886 some serious restoration work starts.
Map of Saint Amand de Coly
Map of Saint Amand de Coly.
Sights
With a total depth of 48m, width of 27m and height of 8m the impressive fortified church dominates the village. The construction took most of the 12th century. Based on a Latin cross layout, oriented east-west. The defense walls measure 300m and enclose an area of 5000m2. The church was converted into a fortress but despite its additional defenses it remains a beautiful Romanesque church with simple lines and a simple interior. Its defenses include very thick walls, exits for archers and several blind staircases.
Transhumance passing through the village.

Transhumance passing through the village.

The historical walk of about 1km starts by exploring the church (1), the guardhouse (2) and the defense walls. It then explores the heritage of the village; the former drying shed for tobacco (3; now community hall), the drying shed for wallnuts (4;now tea room), the 'romanesque house' (5), the village well, the presbytery, the former hospital (6) and its washing area. The walk then provides some good views of the village (7), before returning. Alternatively there is a 2,5km 'nature trail' (8) close to the village. Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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