La Vicomté de Turenne: Martel.

The market 'halle' of Martel.

Driving towards Martel through the barrenness of the causse, seeing a skyline emerge dominated by 7 towers is a clear indication you are approaching a historic place.

La Tour Tournemire

“Martel” (french for ‘hammer’), was the name given to the great Charles Martel in the 700s. Legend has it the “savior of Europe” (and grandfather of Charlemagne), founded this garrison town, after defeating the Muslim forces that took over Aquitaine in 732, to block any future Islamic advance towards northern Europe.

Map of Martel.

The Palais de la Raymondie (1) at the center of town houses a small museum largely dedicated to the Puy d’Issolud, a Celtic archaeological site (to the west) which has been identified as Uxellodunum, besieged by Julius Caesar in 51 BC, legendary last stand of the Gauls against Roman occupation.

Food served on the streets.

And Martel hosted an Angevine (‘English’) tragedy. When Henry ‘the younger king of England’, took refuge and died here in 1183. So estranged and antagonized from his father, the count of Anjou (and Henry II ‘the elder king of England’) only arrived after his death was confirmed, thinking the scene had been a trap set by his son to catch him.

Doorway with roses

The small town is densely packed with history, a weekly farmers market is held in the historic ‘Halle’ (2) every Saturday. Rich in local produce, and seasonal truffles and mushrooms gathered from the surrounding forests and causse. Strolling through the small streets admire the Maison Fabri (3), Hotel de Briance (4), Maison de la Vidalie (5), Hotel de Mirandol (6), Saint-Maur church (7) and La Tour Tournemire (8).

Slow life...

Towards the south of the town you will find the train station from which a steam train plies a historic rail line constructed on the Dordogne river cliff side. Find out more about the landscape, history, villages and life in the Vicomté de Turenne through:

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La Vicomté de Turenne

Collonges-la-Rouge

Today Terrasson finds itself on the border of the Périgord and Limousin. Historically it was part of the independent Viconté de Turenne. The viconté emerged during the Carolingian empire, first references date back to the 8^th century, the first known Lord of Turenne dates back to 823.

Map of the Vicomté du Turenne

The vicompté occupied a strategic location on the borders of the Périgord, Limousin, Quercy and Auvergne. Controlling the Dordogne, Vézère and Corrèze rivers (bulk transport wood, metal, wine, grain and salt), the old roman roads Lyon-Bordeaux and Paris-Toulouse important for communication as well as the pilgrim routes to Rocamadour and Compostela.

Curemonte

This fiscal paradise avant la lettre did not pay taxes to France nor its kings, had its own army, its own currency and was ruled by a parliament representing the different states. The vicompté perfected the game of remaining neutral in wars, playing the ‘French’ (Capetian) and Angevin (‘English’) out against each other and welcomed protestants fleeing persecution in France./span>

Grapes in the vin paillé vineyards

At the beginning of the 17^th century to cultivation of tobacco was banned in France to favor the Compagnie des Indes with a monopoly. As the vicompté was not part of France it became the source of high quality tobacco smuggled into France.

Detail of Romanesque architecture Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne

Overtime the viscount ran into debt and by 1738 the then king of France Louis XV acquired the vicompté as his private property. It was not till after the french revolution the local parliament was abolished (1802) and the area absorbed into 3 french departments. Bringing a 1000 year independent history to a close.

Forest mushrooms at the local market

Today the area is dotted with some of the most beautiful villages of France. The abolishment of the vicompté brought the privileges (and economy) to an abrupt end, freezing much of the area in time. The villages conserve the memory of a prosperous economy based on tolls, tolerance and tax (evasion).

Spectacular scenery of the Gouffre de Padirac, its underground river and caves.

Find out more about the landscape, history, villages and life in the Vicomté de Turenne through:

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Truffle season on the causse

The Black Truffle or Black Périgord Truffle (Tuber melanosporum), the second-most commercially valuable truffle species (after the Italian White Truffle; Tuber magnatum). The species is named after the Périgord region but is not an Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP). Other truffles found in the area are the Summer Truffle (Tuber aestivum) and the Winter Truffle (Tuber brumale), whose 'vein-markings' are more pronounced resulting in a lighter color. Black and Winter Truffles are harvested in late autumn and winter. The Summer Truffle throughout the summer.

Unlike often thought, the natural habitat of the truffle is not the forest. They prefer well drained calcium rich soils, under 'parc' landscapes (grasslands with spread-out trees) that are the result of grazing (like those traditionally found in the causses). The mycelia of truffles form symbiotic (mycorrhizal) relationships with the roots of several tree species including oak, hazel, beech and cedar. Black truffles suppress the growth of plants around their host, creating the impression of a burnt (brûlé) area around it. The truffle thus help the host tree to absorb nutrients from the soil, and helps reduce competition for water.

Winter is also the season for the truffle markets. Largest market is the one in Périgueux, and smaller local markets are organized in Terrasson and Saint Geniès. First week of February is also the time the village of Chartrier-Ferrière, in the Corrèze on the border with the Périgord (Dordogne). This is also the watershed between the Causse Corrèzien and the Causse de Terrasson, with truffle producers from both sides submitting their harvest to be judged. A little folklore, a little drink, a tombola, the market, a sense of community.

No public gatherings this year, so last year’s pictures, looking forward to next year! Find out more about the landscape, history, vegetation, the villages and life on the causse:

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